I’ve been eyeing Japan for a while now, but once again, this is another country my husband has already visited (he’s been to over 50 countries so far!). Honestly, our original journey actually wasn’t to Japan, we were booked for China but last minute decided to checkout Japan instead, I’m so happy we did!
Getting to Tokyo
When Delta has a SkyMiles sale to Asia (make sure you sign up to receive their emails), they are usually too good to pass up! Have an American Express Platinum card? You can also transfer points over to Delta to help you redeem those flights. Our round trip tickets were 70,000 points each in economy from Miami, a sweet deal for tickets that average around US$1000 or more.
Usually it takes us over 26 hours to get to Asia but Tokyo was much easier to get to. On the way there we took a short flight from Miami to Atlanta over to Detroit, and then 12 hours over to Tokyo (long route but that’s what you gotta do when booking with points sometimes!). On the way back we had just 2 stops flying from Tokyo to Atlanta (12 hours), then 1 hour to Miami. With the time difference we were back home the same day! Much easier than any other place we’ve been to in Asia.
Visa requirements for Japan
US Citizens do not need a visa to visit Japan! What a relief from our usual travels where we are trying to figure out what visa is needed. Check if you need a visa to visit and read more about their special Olympics visa here.
What to pack
Before ANY trip I check the weather a week prior to get a good gauge of what it may be like. Honestly, sometimes it’s completely wrong (like that time we brought winter coats to Peru) but it will give you a decent idea of what you’ll need. Here’s a few key items you will need for your trip:
- Good walking shoes are essential, we walked almost 10 miles a day, clocking 100 miles for our 9 day trip! Even in my New Balance sneakers my ankles and feet were swollen after a few days.
- When we visited in April the weather in Tokyo was beautiful during the day but very cold at night, you will need at least 1 winter jacket, scarves, gloves and a head covering. There were a few places we tried to visit at night and just had to leave due to the brutal cold wind, the key is to bring layers.
- A comfortable backpack is essential, you will need it to carry those extra layers of clothing that you will be removing throughout the day
SIM Cards
When researching options for SIM Cards vs MyFi devices before going to Japan there was a wealth of information. After visiting here’s what I’d recommend; get a SIM card at the airport, a 10 day unlimited data only plan cost US$58 (pretty pricy!). Shop around at the various desks before buying your SIM or purchase one online before you go. Your phone will need to be unlocked to use the SIM, call your US carrier to confirm that your devices is unlocked as most aren’t’.
Currency
¥112 = US$1 (Google for the most updated rates)
Cash is King in Japan! US dollars are accepted at very few places, people prefer local currency and credit cards are not accepted in most restaurants. You can however use your credit card at major retailers, convenience stores and in Taxis. Use your card wherever possible and always ask to be charged in local currency, let your bank/card use their exchange rate, it will typically be a better rate. Have cash on hand at all times, you will need it to get into most parks and trains (some even accept exact coins only).
Getting around in Tokyo
Transportation in Japan was probably my biggest expense! Taxis were expensive but convenient, local trains were cheaper but took longer and were confusing, honestly getting around here was not easy. Bring your patience and walking shoes!
Taxis and Uber
Good news, there’s Uber in Tokyo, bad news it’s only Uber Black! That means you’ll be paying a lot more than you normally would for a regular Uber. There was the option to take Japan Taxi which seemed to be cheaper than Uber but we were unable to download the app as we did not have a local number to verify the login. Try to download this app before you arrive.
Taxis are easy to find in Japan but expensive, some rides started at ¥600! Your taxi driver will also most likely not speak English and even when you show him the location on Google maps, be very confused on where you’d like to go. We were actually told to leave some taxis because the driver couldn’t figure out where we were going! Note, the taxi doors open and close on their own, do not try to open or close the door yourself, just leave them alone.
Taking the Bullet Train
When visiting Japan you’ll definitely want to add Kyoto to your list! Getting there is easy via the infamous bullet train but pricey. The cost of the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Kyoto was US$140 each way making the round trip ticket US$280 each! You do have the option to take the bus but that takes much longer (about 8-9 hours), where the bullet train is just over 2 hours each way.
You can purchase a ticket at the station at the JR kiosk with cash (the kiosk doesn’t take credit cards) or wait in line for an agent if you want to pay by card. Beware, the lines at the JR office can be long and the agents at the desk do not speak much English, very strange when so many tourist use the JR line. There are trains leaving every 15-20 minutes from Tokyo to Kyoto, most having just 3 stops or less so no need to rush to the station. You do not need to buy a ticket for a reserved seat, we bought non-reserved and were able to sit together, just arrive at the platform early to stand in line to claim your spot.
Should you buy a JR pass?
YES and YES, I made the mistake of not buying one and definitely paid more than I should have. Honestly, I knew that we should have bought the passes online in advance but my husband told me to wait and see when we get there, bad move all around! Order yours online in advance (at least 2 weeks before your trip) to beat the lines at the station and have peace of mind. The website also has a fare calculator where you can input the places you’d like to visit and it will tell you if buying the pass is worth it.
The JR pass will only work on the bullet trains, the JR lines and some JR buses. Use Google Maps to determine which route will put you on the JR train, there is also an app called Hyperdia that can help you coordinate your trip when using the JR line. Download this before you arrive!
Note, the JR pass doesn’t include the local trains which will sometimes be the easiest route with most rides costing ¥150 – ¥300. Google or Apple Maps will be your best friend trying to figure out how to navigate the city, it will tell you walking directions (even offline), what train to take, and the estimated price. Do not leave home without this!
How to take the local train in Tokyo
When getting to the station you’ll have to purchase a ticket at the kiosk (cash only) or you can buy a week long pass. We really should have bought the week pass rather than buying tickets each time we got to the station, another fail! Most of the kiosks have an English option and will show how much credit you need to buy when searching for the name of the station you are getting off at. In some cases you will have to look at the map (hopefully it’s in English) and figure out the price to get to your destination.
This can be complicated and you will get frustrated but they do have agents who speak English at most major stops to help you navigate this along with trying to figure out where to catch the train. We got lost, stood at the wrong station and took the wrong train a few times, be prepared to have this happen! Did I mention you need good walking shoes here?
Weather in Tokyo
Visiting in the beginning of April (during spring) we figured it wouldn’t be too cold but we were wrong! Okay, it was bearable during the day with highs of 60°F but the nights were really cold dropping 20 degrees to 40°F. If you really don’t like the cold you can wait another month or so, it will be much warmer. We really just wanted to be there for the cherry blossoms which actually bloomed early this year, we almost missed them!
Where to stay in Tokyo
Finding accommodation in Tokyo took hours of searching and reading, most places have awful reviews on Google or Hotels.com or were just very expensive. Rates also go up on the weekends and of course during cherry blossom season.
Tokyo is also such a huge place it can be difficult to decide where to stay, most people recommended Shibuya, Shinjuku or Ginza. All of these areas were out of our budget, here’s where we ended up.
Keio Presso Inn Tokyo Station
For the first night in Tokyo we wanted to stay somewhere near Tokyo station since we were heading to Kyoto the next day. Getting here took about an hour on the Narita Express from the Narita Airport. The hotel was conveniently located in a quiet part of town and only a 10 minute walk from the Tokyo Station with convenient stores and restaurants nearby. The rooms were small, but that’s something you’ll have to expect traveling in Japan. Pro Tip– book a room with 2 double beds to get extra space.
After checking in we took a short walk and found a beautiful street lined with cherry blossoms, live music and food stations! They blocked off the street for the evening allowing people to sit with friends and family to have a picnic underneath the beautiful sakura trees, what a great idea!
Tokyo 1899 Hotel
On our way back from Osaka we stayed at the Tokyo 1899 hotel located in Minato. The hotel was new, had really helpful staff who spoke good English (this is rare) and included a yummy breakfast in their swanky café.
However, train stations were at least a 10-15 minute walk away, this doesn’t seem long but after journeying out to temples all day and walking at 7am, you will really feel the distance! The beds in the hotel are also abnormally hard with extra soft pillows, not the most comfortable sleep I’ve had.
Just a few blocks away near the Shinbashi station you’ll find small bars, eateries and a bustling nightlife with “girl bars” offering 60 minute entry prices (I’m still not sure what those were all about lol). Either way, there were girls lining the street encouraging male travelers and locals to come inside for a good time.
Where to eat in Tokyo
Tokyo is a huge tourist destination coupled with a large population, add on cherry blossom season and you’ll get long lines at every decent place to eat. Be prepared to wait up to an hour just to get some decent Ramen! Oh, and getting reservations at any fancy Michelin star restaurants will require you to make reservations in advance, at least a month or two before you arrive. Yelp is also available in Japan with pretty accurate reviews, you can use this to find something nearby.
While I was disappointed with the food in Japan (I know that sounds crazy, but I really struggled to find good meals here) here’s a few of the places we enjoyed in Tokyo.
Jirōmaru Shinjuku Honten doesn’t take reservations, is in a really small, standing only room that fits maybe 10 people, but serves some great Wagyu beef at reasonable prices. The menu is in Japanese but the chef does speak English, choose the “chef special” he will choose a few options for you rather than you trying to figure out what to get.
He will serve you the meat straight from the counter where you’ll have to cook it on your own personal grill, make sure you cook your meat in the middle of the grill, the chef will get upset if you cook it anywhere else! My favorite was the A4 Wagyu (the highest grade is A12), surprisingly it tasted better than the A5. Oh, and you must buy a drink with your meal, water is not included (I had iced tea), this is a strange rule I came across at a few restaurants in Japan.
If you’re looking for the ultimate sushi experience, look no further than Ginza Sushi-Ko Honten. A hidden gem tucked away off a small side street in Ginza recommended by the late Anthony Bourdain. This place was very hard to find, there is actually no sign on the outside! Luckily, someone nearby was able to direct us here. Once again this place was very small seating maybe 8 people max.
The menu is only traditional Japanese sushi (think sashimi), you will not find any fancy rolls with toppings like we have in the US. If you’re up for it, get the chefs special which includes sea urchin and a few other adventurous items. This will be the most authentic sushi you’ll ever have, but it comes with a hefty price tag of about US$100 per person.
For some good Ramen at a great price (less than US$10) check out Ichiran Ramen, they have numerous locations around Japan. You’ll have to order your food at a vending machine first, then go sit down. Want more noodles for that yummy broth? Just ask the server and you can pay him directly for an extra bowl. I actually came back really liking Ramen, in fact I really want a good Ramen right about now haha.
After trying the famous Ippudo restaurant in New York, I was eager to visit the original location in Tokyo! Unfortunately every location had a really long line, except Ippudo in the Narita airport, make sure you stop here for your last meal in Japan. The line may seem long but it moves quickly and is much better than plane food!
My only issue was that seating was limited and you are not able to save a seat while your partner or friend orders. Also, if you have someone in your group that is not eating, they cannot sit in the restaurant. The staff will tell you that you cannot sit down until you pay for your meal and ask your friend to leave if they are not eating. For a food tour alongside a local checkout Eat With or Airbnb Experiences.
Things to Do in Tokyo
Visit a Park
Tokyo has plenty of beautiful parks where you can take a walk down the river side and enjoy the beautiful scenery, particularly during cherry blossom season! Sumida park is the perfect place to sit, enjoy the views and enjoy local eats.
Checkout the Tokyo SkyTree
Once you visit Sumida Park, head to the Tokyo SkyTree! This iconic building sits over 2000ft high and gives you a great bird’s eye view of the city!
There’s also a cafeteria on the first level that has a wide array of stalls offering dim sum, matcha treats and much more. It was really hard to choose what to try here but as usual, I went straight for the dim sum, my favorite!
Take a row boat in Chidorigafuchi
This was my favorite activity in Tokyo! Include me in anything that involves nature and boats and I’ll be in my happy place. Located near the Imperial Palace (another cool place to stop by), this park hosts 170 different types of cherry blossoms that line the riverside. A beautiful site day or night! You’ll have two options when you buy your tickets, one hour or 30 minutes, take the one hour for ¥1000, you’ll need it!
During sakura season the boats open at 9:30am and close at 4 or 5pm depending on the day, there is also a night session that ends at 10pm. I read many reviews from people who waited two hours or more to get a boat, we arrived at 8:30 am and were the first people there. After we left there was actually no line, it looked like we rushed to get there early for no reason! I still recommend getting to Chidorigafuchi early, you just never know what the crowd will be like.
Inokashira Park is another place that you can take a row boat with 500 sakura trees spread throughout the park. We chose to go to Chidorigafuchi instead because it was only 15 minutes away from our hotel.
Visit one of the many temples
We didn’t have much time in Tokyo and after coming back from Kyoto and Osaka were really tired, at that point I think we had walked over 80 miles! So despite having a long list of temples to see, we didn’t get to do it all. However, on our last day we took a quick trip to Senso-Ji Temple, the oldest temple in the city. Beware of crowds here, we arrived at 9am and it was already quite busy, I’m talking rubbing shoulders with people busy. I recommend coming at 7:30am or earlier if you plan on taking photos and want to peacefully enjoy it. The temple is free to enter and open 24 hours!
Go to Takeshita Street
This is the place to do a little bit of shopping for clothing, souvenirs and accessories from local store owners and indulge in French crepes, rainbow cotton candy, cream filled eclairs, popcorn and more. Day or night this place will be busy! While you’re there take a walk around Harajuku, you will probably run into a nice restaurant or high end shop you like or stop by the Meiji Shrine. You’ll also find a much younger crowd here dressed up in funky outfits!
Spend time in Ginza
This high end shopping area is the place to go if you’re looking to purchase a luxury item tax free! It also has the second busiest street crossing in Tokyo, worth seeing.
My favorite thing in Ginza was the food, be sure to check out Manneken for the best waffles you’ve ever had. We bought a chocolate one and a regular, and they were so delicious we went back in line for seconds!
Don’t leave here without trying Ginza Kimuraya, this was the best bakery I came across on my stay here, I went here twice! Try the curry croissant, cream puffs and pretty much anything, they will all be absolutely delicious.
Things we missed
There are so many things to do in Tokyo, it can easily be overwhelming and you may not have time to get it all done! From day trips to nearby cities to just exploring Tokyo, there was too much to do in our 3 night stay here. Some other things you can check out that we missed are:
Piss alley
Just outside of Shinjuku station you’ll find Piss Alley also known as Memory Lane which is a collection of small bars, food stalls and vibrant night life. This is where you’ll want to head for some cheap drinks and feel a little more of a local vibe.
Tsukiji Fish Market
Known as the mecca for fresh, delicious sushi, there’s no shortage of seafood at the Tsukji Fish Market. They no longer have the famous morning fish actions here but this is a great place to walk around, bask in traditional Japanese culture and have some local eats from the many vendors.
Shibuya crossing
This famous crossing is known as the busiest intersection in the world! With people going in all directions you’ll need to prepare yourself for this famous crossing. This is something I really wanted to do but time just wasn’t on our side!
Akihabara
If you’re into video games this is the place to go! You’ll find a variety of arcades, gaming stores with retro game systems and anime products. Ashikaga gardens
Day trip to nearby cities
Like I mentioned, there is just so much to see in Japan! Some of the day trips you can take are to Mount Fuji, Nikko a UNESCO World Heritage site, Hakone and much more. Read more here about the 15 best day trips from Tokyo. More information on 25 of the easiest day trips from Tokyo can be found here.
I am so happy we made it to Japan! Even if you only have a week to spare, you can plan out a few key spots and take a direct flight to this wonderful country. You will be tired, your feet with hurt, but it’s worth it. Checkout more from my journey on my Instagram Stories and my blog post on Kyoto!
